India and Bhutan Trip Itinerary

March 4-23, 2010

March 4: In Transit

Depart San Francisco at 2:20 pm on Lufthansa flight 455. Arrive in Frankfurt on March 5 at 10:10 am.

March 5: In Transit

Depart Frankfurt at 11:40 am. Arrive in Calcutta on March 6 at 1 am.

March 6: Calcutta

After clearing customs, transfer to beautiful Hindustan Hotel. After leisurely late breakfast, half-day city tour, including a walking tour of the old part of the city that houses important 19th century buildings.

March 7: Calcutta – Kaziranga National Park

This morning we catch the Calcutta-Guwahati flight (9:50am) and then transfer to a bus/jeeps for the 150-mile (approx. 5 hour) drive to the Kaziranga National Park. Kaziranga is a World Heritage site, famous for its wildlife (one-horned rhinos, wild elephants, tigers, leopards, etc.) and over 400 species of birds. Upon arrival, check in at the lodge; after dinner, retire early to bed.

March 8: Kaziranga

Wake up early in the morning for an exciting elephant ride through the National Park; elephants are very well suited to traverse the terrain here, with extensive grasslands covered with tangled and thorny rattan cane, as well as many water bodies and marshes. While rhinoceros sightings are virtually guaranteed, you are also likely to see the Indian bison, swamp deer, langur monkeys and more.

Later, after breakfast at the lodge, hop on a jeep safari inside the central range of Kaziranga for around 2 hours, before heading back to the lodge for lunch. Later this afternoon, venture out for another jeep safari, this time to the western range of the park. This evening enjoy a traditional cultural Bihu dance of Assam, before dinner at the lodge.

March 9: Kaziranga

This morning we visit the Panbari Reserve Forest, the only part of the park where visitors are allowed to walk (only with an armed forest guard). Panbari serves as a highland cover for animals during the frequent floods. It's also an effective corridor for wild elephants, whose range includes Kaziranga's grassland. Besides being an excellent place for spotting exotic woodland birds, Panbari also has a significant population of Hollock gibbon, the only ape found in India.

Pay a final visit to Kaziranga after lunch with a jeep safari to the eastern range of the park. The area is excellent for bird watching and includes nests of the globally threatened Pallas fish eagle and a colony of spot-billed pelicans. Migrant waterfowl may be observed at Sohola Beel. Elephants may also be encountered, as well water buffalo and swamp deer.

March 10: Kaziranga-Darjeeling

Leaving the lodge early this morning, drive to Guwahati to catch afternoon flight to Bagdogra (1:15 pm) in the neighboring state of West Bengal. We will be met at the airport and then transferred by bus (67 miles, approx. 3-4 hours) to Darjeeling, which is at an elevation of almost 7,000 feet.

Watch the tropical plains giving way to hilly terrain, as we travel along the winding roads; soon, all around is the verdant landscape of tea plantations, punctuated by magnolia trees and rhododendron bushes. Arrive in Darjeeling by early evening and check into hotel, where a hot dinner awaits.

March 11: Darjeeling

Early risers will be rewarded with a drive to Tiger Hill, which provides in clear weather, a breathtaking sunrise view of the Mount Kanchenzonga. Return to the hotel for a late breakfast, after which we have the opportunity to ride what is affectionately known as the Toy Train. When the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway started more than a hundred years ago, it was a marvel of British engineering and carried people, sacks of tea, bags of potatoes and rice, wool from Tibet, Kalimpong oranges and grain.

Now declared a World Heritage site (one of only two railways worldwide), on some days the train is still hauled by the original steam locomotives from the 19th century. Ride the train until Ghoom and then return by bus to Darjeeling, with the remainder of the day free to explore the town and its many shops and cafes.

March 12: Darjeeling

After a leisurely breakfast today, a visit to a working tea plantation has been arranged. Here, as we tour the garden (as tea plantations are known) and will get a fascinating insight into how tea is grown and produced – how the skilled workers pick the right leaves ensuring that the buds are not damaged and how these leaves are then dried and packed – either in tea bags or as loose tea in chests. Blending teas to get the right combination of flavor, color and strength is a fine art and we may get access to their tasting rooms as well.

Those feeling energetic can also go on a short hike, following the workers on the plantation as they go about their daily rounds of plucking a fresh crop of leaves. Follow this up with a nice cup of tea (and perhaps some scones or pastries) to appreciate what ‘garden fresh tea’ really means!

Return to the hotel later and the rest of the afternoon is free to spend as you wish: There are many attractions nearby – the museum of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute has a fascinating display of early attempts to climb Mt. Everest; there is a Tibetan Handicraft Center, Botanical Gardens, etc.

March 13: Kurseong

After breakfast drive to Kurseong (approximately 30 miles, 1.5 hours), another ‘hill-station’ favored by the colonial British, located at an altitude of about 4,850 feet. Far less crowded than Darjeeling, Kurseong has a relaxed feel to the place along with magnificent vistas to the plains below. More important, Kurseong is surrounded by some of the best tea gardens in the area, where their tea fetches well over $1,000 per pound. Names such as Castleton, Makaibari and Goomtee are legendary amongst connoisseurs of tea.

Visit some nearby attractions and perhaps also one of the prestigious tea gardens in the area, which is still family-run and offers a lot of attractions.

March 14: India-Bhutan (Phuentsholing)

Travel by bus from Kurseong towards the Indian border with Bhutan (approximately 115 miles, 7 hours). Travel through the sub-Himalayan parts of Eastern India – foothill forests, rich farmlands and quiet villages along with fast flowing rivers – before we come to Phuentsholing, the border town of Bhutan. After clearing immigration formalities, we will be met by our Bhutanese guide and transferred into Bhutanese vehicles. Our hotel is not far from the border, where a welcoming hot dinner awaits us. (Time permitting, we may visit Zangtho Pelri – a Buddhist temple or a local market).

March 15: Phuentsholing-Thimpu

Today, travel overland to Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan (about 120 miles, 6 hours). Shortly after leaving Phuentsholing, visit Kharbandi Gompa, a monastery set in a garden of tropical plants and flowers. The monastery contains paintings depicting scenes from the life of Buddha and from here there is a splendid view of Phuentsholing and plains of West Bengal and their tea gardens beyond. Travel through picturesque landscapes, until shortly before arriving in Thimpu you get to the Simtokha Dzong, an oldest fortress which now houses a school for religious and cultural studies.

Thimpu, perhaps the most unusual capital city in the world, is the seat of government and home to Bhutan’s royal family. After arrival in Thimpu, visit the Trashichho Dzong, a beautiful medieval fortress/monastery which houses most of the Government offices and King's Throne room; it is also the summer residence of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot of Bhutan.

March 16: Thimpu-Punakha

After breakfast, check out of the hotel and head for the central market in Thimpu – a fascinating place where everything from fresh produce, exotic fruits and vegetable to giant slabs of yak meat are hung up for sale. Also, a great place to get Bhutanese handicrafts. Later today, drive through Dochu-la pass (10,130 feet) to Punakha (50 miles, 3 hours).

March 17: Punakha

Punakha served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955, when the seat of government moved to Thimphu. The impressive local fortress with towering walls built on the junction of two rivers, Punakha Dzong, dominates the landscape of Punakha. The dzong houses many sacred and historic artifacts and also the embalmed body of Shabdrung Namgyal. Like most Buddhist monasteries, it also houses and schools a large number of novice monks. Also in Punakha visit the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a newly built stupa.

The two rivers flowing through Punakha, the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu, make the valley one of the most fertile in Bhutan and area is well known for its rice cultivation. After lunch today, visit a Bhutanese farmhouse, where you have the opportunity to have tea and interact with the locals. Visit a local market as well, before returning to the hotel.

March 18: Punakha-Paro

Travel down to Paro today (80 miles, 5 hours); the road passes by Thimpu). Initially passing soothing green rice fields and quaint villages, the road hugs the river continuing to Paro. Visit Ta Dzong, a 17th century watchtower, now converted as Bhutan's National Museum; it holds a fascinating collection of art, relics, religious tangkha paintings and also exhibits Bhutan's exquisite postage stamps. Later, walk down a hillside trail to visit the Rinpung Dzong, which has a long and fascinating history. The approach to the Dzong is through a traditional covered bridge called Nemi Zam; a walk through the bridge, over a stone inlaid path, offers a good view of the architectural wonder of the Dzong as well as life around it. Later, check into your hotel on the outskirts of Paro.

March 19: Paro

Visit to magical monastery known as Taktsang (the “Tiger’s Nest), built high up on a hillside, it is perched on a granite cliff that drops 2,000 feet to the valley floor. From the point that the bus drops us, it is roughly a two-hour hike through a forest of oak, blue pine and rhododendron, arriving at a small chorten surrounded by prayer flags. With a little more effort, we will reach a teahouse and a spectacular view of the Taktsang dzong. Alternatively, mules are available at the bus stop for the ascent to Taktsang. The walk down takes roughly 90 minutes.

Later, return to the hotel for lunch followed by a visit to Drukgyel Dzong and Kyichu Lakhang. Drukgyel Dzong, with a delightful village nestling at its foot, was built in 1646 by a Bhutanese hero to commemorate a victory over Tibetan invaders. On a clear day, one can see the commanding view of Mount. Chomolhari from the village below the Dzong. Kyichu Lakhang is one of the oldest and most sacred shrines of the Kingdom dating back to 7th century; the lhakhang complex is composed of two temples, one built in the 7th century the other in 1968 by, the Queen Mother of Bhutan.

March 20: Paro-Calcutta

Transfer to the airport today for morning flight to Calcutta, which allows a wonderful opportunity to view the eastern Himalayan ranges from the air. We will be met at the airport upon arrival and transferred to the magnificent Grand Oberoi Hotel.

Later, visit Victoria Memorial Hall, an impressive monument built around 1920 in honor of Britain’s Queen Victoria, it now houses an art gallery and museum. Later, drive to Kalighat in South Calcutta, a famous temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali; pilgrims from all over India come to visit the temple and it is fascinating to watch the crowds and the religious rituals.

A stone’s throw away from the temple is a home for dying destitute that Mother Teresa nurtured for many years; the less fortunate are given some succor and dignity, before they pass away and are cremated in Kalighat. A visit to the home, along with a possible opportunity to volunteer for a few hours (subject to the needs / terms of the Missionaries of Charity) will be available. The remainder of the day is free – either to spend more time volunteering, shopping or simply relaxing at the hotel pool.

March 21: Calcutta

Proceed for a tour of the city from a completely different perspective – while cruising on the Hooghly River, that flows through the twin cities of Calcutta and Howrah. Sail under the famous Howrah Bridge, passing 19th century brick warehouses, merchant’s houses, temples and bathing ghats. The kaleidoscope of daily life playing out as your boat glides by is utterly fascinating! Return to your hotel before sunset.

March 22: Calcutta

Free day for shopping and packing. Vacate hotel room in afternoon. Luggage may of course be stored at the hotel until it is time for transfer to the airport at 11 pm for departure flight (Lufthansa 751).

March 23

Arrival in San Francisco at 2:20 pm.

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